Review: Great Taste, No Waste, at Bangkok’s Affordable Farm Restaurant

Review: Great Taste, No Waste, at Bangkok’s Affordable Farm Restaurant

At Haoma, you'll eat clean, green, and good

If you eat out frequently, you’ll notice menus have changed. No longer is fried chicken simply that, instead you might see it as “sustainably-sourced organic free-range chicken”. But so far, such environmentally-friendly menus lean toward unfriendly prices. 

One chef though, is trying to change that with what he hopes will be the world’s first truly zero-waste restaurant, Haoma - with affordable Indian fare. Indian-born Chef Deepanker Khosla disapproves of treating “organic” and “sustainable” as expensive food trends. 

“All of us have the human right to eat clean and fresh and affordably. With our self sustainable hydroponic, aquaponic and compost farm models at Haoma, we can show the world an example of how city dwellers and even large corporations can grow their own produce responsibly.”
Ambience in Haoma. Photo: Haoma

If that seems like a sophisticated eco-restaurant, that’s because it is. His restaurant, Haoma, is an urban farm restaurant concept that sits in a relatively quiet part of busy Bangkok. It looks like a two-storey greenhouse. There are over 30 different vegetables, fruits and even a fish farm. What’s impressive here is that all water and waste are recycled as fertiliser or as food for fish. 

Diners can look forward to having a tour outside the restaurant for a view of edible greens onsite which feature in their nine- and 13-course tasting dinners. Almost all of Khosla’s menu come directly from plants that are grown on-site or in the neighbourhood, “from the markets my sous chef and I visit every day.”

“I look around to see what’s here and celebrate the ingredients,” he sums up his sourcing technique as an unhindered process. “I don’t constrain myself to other cuisines. They all influence me—French, Italian, Mexican, Indian—but I can’t be restricted by them,” says the 29-year-old, who has cooked in kitchens from Mumbai to Phuket. 

Having easy access to local produce allows Khosla to bring out their fresh flavours, and be experimental, which he enjoys. 

Tomato mist. Photo: Haoma 

The Tomato Mist is an elevation of the humble tomato, paired with eclectic ingredients such as Indian barrage, whey, celery and blueberry. For a stroll down a meatier pasture, try Khosla’s Wagyu ribs which are sharpened by healthy comfort foods such as smoked eggplant, raw mushrooms and glazed eel. 

Melon Terrine -Three Local Melons, Tom Kha Sorbet, Haoma Caviar. Photo: Haoma 

For drinks, Haoma offers a fine selection of organic, biodynamic wines. Moreover, if you are a cocktail lover, don’t miss the “Bell pepper”, “Coconut” and “Grapefruit” cocktails. They are fruity drinks with a clean and focused flavour, and are not mixed from a confusing number of ingredients.

Ultimately, Haoma offers diners environmentally-friendly Indian fare with “freshness” and “diversity”. And these traits, Khosla says is also present in Thai cooking, which he loves. “Thai cuisine is best preserved by honouring and respecting the classic and traditional. I love the approach of freshness and quickness in Thai food. Like Indian food, Thai food is designed to be shared among others, the ‘family style’ meal experience bonds people together, of all races and cultures.”

Website: www.haoma.dk

Address: 231/3 Sukhumvit Soi 31 Bangkok, +662 258 4744

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